Post by pwrpony on Apr 17, 2014 22:17:58 GMT
Here it is, and thankfully this time we've got the first post so information can be updated on this first post. Of course this post will change as new info and tips come about.
Features:
-CNC aluminum chassis and top plates
-CNC aluminum caster blocks, rear hubs, and knuckles
-CNC aluminum camber link mounts, front bulkhead, hingepin brace, suspension carriers, and hexes
-full ball bearings
-full cvds
-3mm CNC machined hard anodized towers
-updated, stronger wing mounts
-vertical camber links for easy adjustments
-strong, smooth, and efficient gear diff's with steel gears
-CNC machined steering system for precise on track corrections
-Smooth, 13mm big bore hard coated shocks, with lower caps for easy rebuilds
Build Guide and Tips
This is meant to be a simple guide to everything about the Caster S10b. Hopefully it can help answer some of your questions:
Build Guide:
1. Step 21- the manual shows to install the plastic front bulkhead. This is incorrect for the pro car, it has an aluminum bulkhead. However, the pro bulkhead makes use of plastic inserts/bushings for the hinge-pins and set screws beneath to keep the hinge-pins from wearing out the chassis. Simply push these inserts into the back of the bulkhead and install as shown.
2. Step 8-When assembling the slipper, it is recommended to clean the front outdrive with motor spray and use red threadlock on the set screw securing it on. After the first few runs you will want to check to make sure that it has not loosened up. if it has, clean it again and threadlock as before
and also on the 2 screws that hold the bevel gears to the input shafts.
3. Step 4- This step shows 4 shims being used (2 per side). This can lead to a completely locked down slipper with no adjustment . 2 ended up being the correct number for proper fitment, but assemble and make sure yours work correctly.
4. Step 4- This step shows an rtr plastic slipper cap, not the SKOP015 - Orange Aluminum Center Differential Cap included with the kit. This part is made of 3 pieces. For ease of construction, a small dab of ShooGoo on the top part of the bearing seats that go through the top cap helps to keep them in place during assembly.
5. Step 14- Servo Saver bearings fit very snugly in the assembly.
6. Steps 19 & 25- A small amount of ShooGoo, threadlock, or grease will prevent the drive pins (that go through the hexes) from falling out while transporting or working on the buggy
7. Step 31-The front bumper aft most screw now included with the kit is very short (the appropriate length).
8. Step 32-When installing the pistons on the shafts, take care as to not tighten the retaining nut all the way; just enough to where the piston barely spins on the shaft. This is to prevent the pistons from being squished slightly and binding on the shock bodies
SKOP059 - Bulkhead Brace installation is not shown in the instructions. Their installation requires 6ea. 3mmx16mm flush head screws.
-Make sure to use threadlock! due to the abundant amount of metal parts on this car any and all screws that thread into metal need threadlock
-Simply take your time on this build. The instructions are horrible as we all know but we are working on it. so for now, use your head on each step and just use common sense to what screws should be put where
-On the front gearbox, DO NOT over tighten the rear most bumper mounting screw. in addition you want to use the smallest screw you can find that somewhat threads into the gearbox. Not doing these will cause the entire drivetrain to lock up and destroy parts on the car. Again this is a problem we are working on
-For the sway bars, DO NOT overtighten the mounts. this may cause the plastic to deform and is just a huge pain. lightly tighten till they are snug. Or, you can use some of these screws and its far easier
-Make sure to use grease on the outdrives and green slime on the o-rings when assembling the diffs. this will ensure the diffs do not leak any fluid while running
-On the topic of the slipper: Just for the ease of finding parts, most of the team uses AE spur gears and slipper pads. There really isnt a performance difference but it is much easier to keep replacements on hand this way
Cross-Reference/Compatibility guide:
Springs:
We are in the process of making our own line of option springs for this buggy but for now...these fit:
-AE 12mm big bore shock springs fit pretty well but rub more than the stockers. once again very easy to find and keep on hand 'cause its AE. For best use, simply flip the spring collar upside down. this will make it far easier to make pre-load adjustments
Pistons:
*Caster now offers blank pistons, so other brands are not needed!
Spur Gears:
-As said before, AE slipper pads and spurs fit. However, the hole in the ae spurs are a bit smaller than the caster input shaft. simply take a drill bit of appropriate size or a body reamer and open up the hole a little to allow the spur to be pressed onto the shaft.
Ballcups:
-Why in hades would you want other ballcups? These things will never pop off during a race
-But, AE ballcups DO fit
Wheels:
-Caster rims are usually used for the front rims, but Kyosho zx5 front rims fit just as well
-Rear wheels are the standard offset and can be used from any major tire/wheel company. However, on some brands of wheels a low profile, serrated wheel nut is recommended to ensure the wheel actually stays on while in use
Bodies:
-b44.1 bodies usually fit the best if you have one laying around or can find one. however, b44.2 bodies will fit with a little more trimming and playing around with the mounting holes
-Not many other bodies are known to fit, but any similarly shaped bodies like the Kyosho ZX5 bodies should fit decently
Setup help:
-Most of our team drivers use the longest possible wheelbase (by moving shims) the car can have. This seems to work very well and is a great starting point for any track
-Toe plates are available for the buggy, in 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 degree plates. Most of us use the 2.5 stock plate, and sometimes the 3.0
-Blank pistons are available for shock tuning!
Here is the current setup I use, and I would consider it to be a very good base for most tracks:
Front:
10k diff
Shocks-2x 1.7mm pistons, AE red springs, 35wt losi oil (or 37.5, depending on jump size and temperature)
Outer on arm, 2nd from inner on tower
no washers under the ballstuds, v4 camber link mount inner position (which is the same as the v3/v3.5 mount's hole)
a little bit of toe out, -1 camber
Rear:
7k diff
Shocks-3x 1.6mm pistons, AE Green springs, 27.5wt losi oil
Inner on arm, 2nd from outer on tower
(V4 camber link mount, mounts the inside hole in about 2mm from stock) inner position on inner link mount, inner position on hub, lower hingepin hole
Wheelbase shims all the forward
3 degree toe block, -1 degrees camber
Notes: 6.5 motor, 6.5" wing, PL Bulldog Body, Pro-line Ions all around
*This is an extremely important part of this setup. Not doing this will make your car way too locked in most likely, depending on the track. This is just a temporary thing currently, as we are still testing chassis lengths and such. However, until a chassis is available this mod makes the car FAR easier to drive hard and is much more stable.
Aftermarket support:
-Diggity Designs-
These guys have been producing quality CF options for the Caster lineup for years. Definitely check them out if you are wanting to make your car lighter or different looking
www.diggitydesigns.com
-TSR (Tuner Spec Racing)-
TSR has been working with us recently to produce some very high quality options for our car, from screw kits to bearings, boots to o rings, theyve got a wide range of parts to choose from
www.tsrproducts.com/
Contact Info/Purchasing:
The website for Caster Racing USA is: casterracingparts.com
Caster vehicles and parts can be purchased from these sites:
amainhobbies.com
tsrproducts.com
casterracingparts.com
Contact info:
Caster Racing USA: info@casterracingparts.com
Team Inquires/Info: info@casterracingparts.com
www.casterracingparts.com
Features:
-CNC aluminum chassis and top plates
-CNC aluminum caster blocks, rear hubs, and knuckles
-CNC aluminum camber link mounts, front bulkhead, hingepin brace, suspension carriers, and hexes
-full ball bearings
-full cvds
-3mm CNC machined hard anodized towers
-updated, stronger wing mounts
-vertical camber links for easy adjustments
-strong, smooth, and efficient gear diff's with steel gears
-CNC machined steering system for precise on track corrections
-Smooth, 13mm big bore hard coated shocks, with lower caps for easy rebuilds
Build Guide and Tips
This is meant to be a simple guide to everything about the Caster S10b. Hopefully it can help answer some of your questions:
Build Guide:
1. Step 21- the manual shows to install the plastic front bulkhead. This is incorrect for the pro car, it has an aluminum bulkhead. However, the pro bulkhead makes use of plastic inserts/bushings for the hinge-pins and set screws beneath to keep the hinge-pins from wearing out the chassis. Simply push these inserts into the back of the bulkhead and install as shown.
2. Step 8-When assembling the slipper, it is recommended to clean the front outdrive with motor spray and use red threadlock on the set screw securing it on. After the first few runs you will want to check to make sure that it has not loosened up. if it has, clean it again and threadlock as before
and also on the 2 screws that hold the bevel gears to the input shafts.
3. Step 4- This step shows 4 shims being used (2 per side). This can lead to a completely locked down slipper with no adjustment . 2 ended up being the correct number for proper fitment, but assemble and make sure yours work correctly.
4. Step 4- This step shows an rtr plastic slipper cap, not the SKOP015 - Orange Aluminum Center Differential Cap included with the kit. This part is made of 3 pieces. For ease of construction, a small dab of ShooGoo on the top part of the bearing seats that go through the top cap helps to keep them in place during assembly.
5. Step 14- Servo Saver bearings fit very snugly in the assembly.
6. Steps 19 & 25- A small amount of ShooGoo, threadlock, or grease will prevent the drive pins (that go through the hexes) from falling out while transporting or working on the buggy
7. Step 31-The front bumper aft most screw now included with the kit is very short (the appropriate length).
8. Step 32-When installing the pistons on the shafts, take care as to not tighten the retaining nut all the way; just enough to where the piston barely spins on the shaft. This is to prevent the pistons from being squished slightly and binding on the shock bodies
SKOP059 - Bulkhead Brace installation is not shown in the instructions. Their installation requires 6ea. 3mmx16mm flush head screws.
-Make sure to use threadlock! due to the abundant amount of metal parts on this car any and all screws that thread into metal need threadlock
-Simply take your time on this build. The instructions are horrible as we all know but we are working on it. so for now, use your head on each step and just use common sense to what screws should be put where
-On the front gearbox, DO NOT over tighten the rear most bumper mounting screw. in addition you want to use the smallest screw you can find that somewhat threads into the gearbox. Not doing these will cause the entire drivetrain to lock up and destroy parts on the car. Again this is a problem we are working on
-For the sway bars, DO NOT overtighten the mounts. this may cause the plastic to deform and is just a huge pain. lightly tighten till they are snug. Or, you can use some of these screws and its far easier
-Make sure to use grease on the outdrives and green slime on the o-rings when assembling the diffs. this will ensure the diffs do not leak any fluid while running
-On the topic of the slipper: Just for the ease of finding parts, most of the team uses AE spur gears and slipper pads. There really isnt a performance difference but it is much easier to keep replacements on hand this way
Cross-Reference/Compatibility guide:
Springs:
We are in the process of making our own line of option springs for this buggy but for now...these fit:
-AE 12mm big bore shock springs fit pretty well but rub more than the stockers. once again very easy to find and keep on hand 'cause its AE. For best use, simply flip the spring collar upside down. this will make it far easier to make pre-load adjustments
Pistons:
*Caster now offers blank pistons, so other brands are not needed!
Spur Gears:
-As said before, AE slipper pads and spurs fit. However, the hole in the ae spurs are a bit smaller than the caster input shaft. simply take a drill bit of appropriate size or a body reamer and open up the hole a little to allow the spur to be pressed onto the shaft.
Ballcups:
-Why in hades would you want other ballcups? These things will never pop off during a race
-But, AE ballcups DO fit
Wheels:
-Caster rims are usually used for the front rims, but Kyosho zx5 front rims fit just as well
-Rear wheels are the standard offset and can be used from any major tire/wheel company. However, on some brands of wheels a low profile, serrated wheel nut is recommended to ensure the wheel actually stays on while in use
Bodies:
-b44.1 bodies usually fit the best if you have one laying around or can find one. however, b44.2 bodies will fit with a little more trimming and playing around with the mounting holes
-Not many other bodies are known to fit, but any similarly shaped bodies like the Kyosho ZX5 bodies should fit decently
Setup help:
-Most of our team drivers use the longest possible wheelbase (by moving shims) the car can have. This seems to work very well and is a great starting point for any track
-Toe plates are available for the buggy, in 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 degree plates. Most of us use the 2.5 stock plate, and sometimes the 3.0
-Blank pistons are available for shock tuning!
Here is the current setup I use, and I would consider it to be a very good base for most tracks:
Front:
10k diff
Shocks-2x 1.7mm pistons, AE red springs, 35wt losi oil (or 37.5, depending on jump size and temperature)
Outer on arm, 2nd from inner on tower
no washers under the ballstuds, v4 camber link mount inner position (which is the same as the v3/v3.5 mount's hole)
a little bit of toe out, -1 camber
Rear:
7k diff
Shocks-3x 1.6mm pistons, AE Green springs, 27.5wt losi oil
Inner on arm, 2nd from outer on tower
(V4 camber link mount, mounts the inside hole in about 2mm from stock) inner position on inner link mount, inner position on hub, lower hingepin hole
Wheelbase shims all the forward
3 degree toe block, -1 degrees camber
Notes: 6.5 motor, 6.5" wing, PL Bulldog Body, Pro-line Ions all around
*This is an extremely important part of this setup. Not doing this will make your car way too locked in most likely, depending on the track. This is just a temporary thing currently, as we are still testing chassis lengths and such. However, until a chassis is available this mod makes the car FAR easier to drive hard and is much more stable.
Aftermarket support:
-Diggity Designs-
These guys have been producing quality CF options for the Caster lineup for years. Definitely check them out if you are wanting to make your car lighter or different looking
www.diggitydesigns.com
-TSR (Tuner Spec Racing)-
TSR has been working with us recently to produce some very high quality options for our car, from screw kits to bearings, boots to o rings, theyve got a wide range of parts to choose from
www.tsrproducts.com/
Contact Info/Purchasing:
The website for Caster Racing USA is: casterracingparts.com
Caster vehicles and parts can be purchased from these sites:
amainhobbies.com
tsrproducts.com
casterracingparts.com
Contact info:
Caster Racing USA: info@casterracingparts.com
Team Inquires/Info: info@casterracingparts.com
www.casterracingparts.com
