This is the 1/10 scale Team Durango DESC210R 2WD Electric Off-Road SC Kit
Features: Injection molded plastic bathtub type chassis with adjustable battery positioning-stick or saddle pack compatible Rear wheel drive with captured CVDs Ball type differential Aluminum body, oil filled Big Bore shocks with additional blank pistons to change dampening rates Plastic shock towers Aluminum motor mount plate, integral with gearbox-design allows rear or mid motor placement on left or right side of chassis Clear untrimmed polycarbonate body Black plastic wheels, 1.6" (40mm) wide, 3" (76mm) diameter, 16mm hex Adjustable front and rear caster, rear toe-in adjustable from 1.5-4.5°, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the chassis Adjustable camber, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle.
Building shocks: -The shock cap should be beveled 45 degrees (exacto knife works well) to help keep the shock cap oring in place. -Sand roughly .5mm from the plastic spacer between the cartridge orings, this allows smoother operation from less "squish"
Bleeding shocks: -Front shocks are simple. Fill 3/4 full, work out air bubbles and then fill to top. Put 2-3 drops in the cap (make sure oring on shock body is lubricated), screw cap down, push shock shaft all the way in, and install bleeder screw. Done! -Rear shocks should be double bled. Fill 3/4 full, work out air bubbles and then fill to top. Put 2-3 drops in the cap (make sure oring on shock body is lubricated), screw cap down, push shock shaft all the way in, and install bleeder screw. Pump the shock in and out 10 times or so (same amount on both sides), extend the shock shaft, remove bleeder screw, push shaft all the way in again, and install bleeder screw.
Shimming Front Hubs: -The front hubs can bind up due to a lack of a crush tube between the bearings. Parts needed to make a crush tube are: Team Durango Wheel Distance Bushing- www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCNY&P=Z Kyosho 5x7mm Shim Set - www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5x7mm-Shim-Set Use one TD wheel distance bushing and .6mm of shims between the bearings in the front hubs to allow the wheels nuts to be tightened while having smooth, bind free wheels.
Shimming Rear Hubs: -Using the same 5x7mm shims, anywhere from .1-.3mm may be necessary between the bearings (on the rear axle), depending on what hubs are installed. The shims slide onto the axle shaft against the "step" prior to installing the axle into the hub. I'll try to get some measurements up in the near future on this, but for now a bit of trial and error may be needed to find the right amount for your hubs. When shimmed properly, the rear wheels can be tightened down very snug and still spin freely.
Rear Dogbones The rear dogbones included with the kit are 96mm length. Depending on the kickup/droop settings used, some racers have had them pop out. The solution is to use the 97mm dogbones from the front of the DESC410. Hobbico will provide these free of charge with a phone call or email.
Recommended Upgrades (* items are very highly recommended)